A new study has found that about half of skin-lightening creams sold on the market contain high, unsafe levels of mercury: a potent neurotoxin that can affect a range of body parts from the kidneys, nervous system, and skin, down to one’s immune and respiratory systems. The findings have revived concerns about the safety of popular cosmetic products, especially those marketed as “lightening” or “brightening” creams.
The research, conducted by the Zero Mercury Working Group (ZMWG) and titled “Zero out toxic production: End the unscrupulous manufacturing of mercury-added skin whiteners,” found mercury concentrations in some creams thousands of times above the legal limit. The international Minamata Convention sets the maximum mercury level in cosmetics at just 1 part per million (ppm), yet many creams far exceed this safe threshold.
“Mercury blocks melanin production, giving the illusion of lighter skin, but prolonged use can cause uneven pigmentation, dark spots, and permanent damage,” said a ZMWG spokesperson. “It also enters the bloodstream, affecting internal organs and posing risks to unborn children.”
The study tested 37 suspected mercury-added creams sourced from Pakistan, the Philippines, Kenya, and the United States. Only two products met legal standards; the remaining 35 contained dangerously high levels, with one US product registering a staggering 24,000 ppm.
Most of the creams fell within the range of 1,000-24,000 ppm; their packaging indicated that many were manufactured in Pakistan-a country that produces about 20 percent of the world’s supply. ZMWG estimates 66 million mercury-laden creams are manufactured annually, which contain more than 110 metric tons of mercury compounds.
The report further elucidates how toxic creams remain widely available at local shops and on online marketplaces. Weak enforcement, loopholes, and an absence of effective international cooperation enable such dangerous products to be circulated despite bans.
ZMWG’s 2022 study, “Skin lighteners still available online despite mercury findings,” analysed 271 online products from 17 countries, including Kenya. Laboratory testing showed 48% of the products were above the 1 ppm limit, some reaching tens of thousands of ppm. Most were from Pakistan (43%), where such skin-whitening creams are banned, followed by Thailand and China, at 8% and 6% respectively. Mislabeling and failure to disclose place consumers at risk, while online marketplaces are generally not policing safety.
Mercury is not the only risk. Many of the skin-lightening creams contain hydroquinone, which could thin the skin and cause dark spots, and steroids such as clobetasol or betamethasone, which might lead to stretch marks, acne, and systemic health problems. Cheaper products also often contain such substances as lead, arsenic, or other heavy metals that may accumulate in the body over time, causing organ damage, neurological issues, or even cancer.
To date, Kenya has made attempts to regulate toxic cosmetics. In November 2022, KEBS banned 131 products, which included creams, lotions, gels, and soaps, citing mercury and other harmful chemicals. KEBS has also issued public warnings about the risks of skin diseases, kidney damage, nervous system disorders, and even cancer.
Despite these efforts, challenges remain, as online sales and imported products continue to expose consumers to hazardous creams. Experts urge stronger enforcement, public awareness, and stricter international cooperation to ensure that mercury-laden skin-lightening products are eliminated from markets worldwide.
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